Stone upon stone: an Italian sojourn: A garden, a glass of brew, and truffles

Back in the days when Florence and the Medicis were constantly at war with Sienna and all the other city states around these ridges, a delightful hilltop village caught in the crossfire, San Quirico d'Orcia, had its walls breached and battered in one of the battles.

As the walls were being repaired around 1575, Diomedi Leoni, an illegitimate son of the notary, was commissioned to build a Horti garden, hugging one section of the wall.

A 'Horti' was a Renaissance garden design, not necessarily attached to any particular house, but rather built for travellers and the travelling nobility. This one is elegant, simple and beautiful. The tall white sculpture as centrepiece in the formal garden is of Cosimo 111 dei Medici, of Florence. It was a thank you gesture from the local Chigi nobility to Cosimo for installing them as the marquisate of San Quirico d'Orcia after the wars; as in you pat my back, I too, will pat yours.

As travellers, we certainly enjoyed this garden designed by this close friend of Michelangelo's: and such a close friend was Leoni, that it was he who attended Michelangelo on his deathbed, and he who announced Michelangelo's death in 1564. That made us a little sad even now. Michelangelo is a favourite of ours.

San Quirico d'Orcia feels a gracious town: as if nobility still runs it. The contradas still operate here. This notice, by a bereaved family, appears to be thanking their contrada for their support during their sad loss.

The town has ancient blocky well cared for churches, one built in the time of St Francis that still wears parts of an old gothic arch from a convent shaped on its external walls. Another, with foundations even earlier, from the 8th century, has an interesting architrave on the front portal showing two fighting alligators, or suchlike mythical monsters. And at the side entrance, carved caryatids stand on the backs of lions.

The town was quiet when we were there. I doubt it is huge on the tourist itinerary as it is rather small with few boutiques, so there was hardly anyone roaming the streets when we were there. Yet, when we sat down to lunch to try the delicious locally brewed San Quirico D'Orcia beer, the restaurant was packed. I have no idea where these people came from.

So many of these hill towns appear able to fill their restaurants without tourists. You just would not think there were this many people around, even before siesta when the shops were opened. It was interesting to see, too, that this was one of the favoured restaurants where folk regularly ordered the massive Florentine Beefsteak, sold by the kilogram, like a catch of the day. Hugely expensive. And many of the steaks are around 11/2" to 2" thick. So large, that once charred, they often carve them standing on the T-bone.

They look and smell delicious when charred and we ate many when we were here, but, today we could not resist the tuffles, so lately that has been my choice from any menu. While I can get them. How I am going to miss that flavour at home.